Bishop Bouldering Blog
Ambrosia -- Direct Start and Third Ascent by Isaac Caldiero
Bishop Bouldering Blog 2010-04-28 | Reads 12 (cached version)
This afternoon Isaac Caldiero
made the third ascent of the amazing highball/solo
Ambrosia
(v11) on the Grandpa Peabody at the Buttermilks. The impending stormy
weather presented an extra challenge. It was a warm, but windy day with
a mist of rain occasionally drifting in from the mountains to dampen
aspirations. But that light intermittent rain evaporated as fast as it
arrived and Isaac was motivated by the cooling of th ...
Paul Robinson climbs Rastaman Vibration Sit
Bishop Bouldering Blog 2010-03-30 | Reads 11 (cached version)
Paul Robinson
has climbed the Buttermilks long-standing project the
Rastaman Vibration Sit
Start
this morning. While working this problem just left of Evilution
, on the Grandpa Peabody Boulder, Paul described it as much harder
than anything he had done before. This extreme problem with a crux move
to gain and dyno from a small left-hand pinch at standing height, was
disregarded as near-impossible ...
Ian Cotter-Brown
made an ascent of
Fight Club Direct
yesterday. It is unclear if there's just one way to make the direct
exit, but Ian came down on a rope to clean and chalk the holds and work
out the moves on TR. After finding himself slipping off the top section
one in three attempts, he declared a ropeless ascent would be like
"rolling the dice." Even so, with a slew of pads he made an
ascent without the rop ...
The Buttermilker by Chris Webb-Parsons
Bishop Bouldering Blog 2010-02-26 | Reads 24 (cached version)
"Doing this problem feels like the first real step on the way
back," said visiting Australian Chris Webb-Parsons
on completing
The Buttermilker
(v13) at the Cave Boulder, the Buttermilks. A year since his severe
shoulder dislocation, and a bit less since the ensuing surgery, Chris
could barely hold the positions on the crux of the line when he arrived
in Bishop. But he kept at it, and saw steady improvements. A ...
Please enjoy this sweet montage of Charlie on This Side of Paradise
(Bardini Boulders, v10).
Thanks to Matt Arnold f ...
Thanks to Matt Arnold f ...
Ian Cotter-Brown
made an ascent of the very rarely repeated
Fight Club
(v11, on the Saigon Boulder) yesterday, making me realize I have to
get out and do that line! It's kinda scary to top out up the slab
leftward, but a direct has also been done. Here are a couple of shots of
Ian from a couple days before his send, taped up and ready to rumble!
Don't let that hippy tie-die fool you!
Sean McColl completes Evilution Direct, Ground-up
Bishop Bouldering Blog 2010-02-21 | Reads 15 (cached version)
Sean McColl
arrived here in Bishop about a week ago, down from Vancouver, Canada.
After re-acquainting himself with the rock here (checking off a few
classics including Stained Glass Sit
), he went back to finish up the climb he came close to doing on his
last visit a couple of years ago:
Evilution Direct.
A prior ground-up
Charlie's New Squeeze Get's a Work-Over!
Bishop Bouldering Blog 2010-02-17 | Reads 16 (cached version)
Kevin Jorgeson
added a no-jump version to Charlie Barrett's
new
squeeze line
(which surely must be called Charlie's New Squeeze
) and climbed it without
a jump start. There's a good left foot (tiny sharp edge) and a pair
of tiny opposing crimps to start. You can pull on first, and then smack
left hand to the swe ...
Charlie Barrett Squeezes a New Line by the Sharma Scoop
Bishop Bouldering Blog 2010-02-16 | Reads 15 (cached version)
Charlie Barrett, added a heinous squeeze line that climbs the right rib
of the Sharma Scoop
, beginning with a jump from the ground. You end up with the left hand
in the right side of the "scoop" and grope powerfully up a
very blunt prow. It looks good and was repeated today by Kevin Jorgeson.
It checks in around v10 or v11. The Buttermilks needs more lines like
this! The Sharma Scoop
is at the Main Buttermilks area--out ...
