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Schubert is in the flow

TheLowDown 2010-05-31 | Reads 20 (cached version)
Jakob Schubert is killing it at the moment. So much in fact that, a couple of days ago he paid Hades , 9a, (the underworld in Greek mythology) a vis ...

8B+ FA by Nalle in Norway

TheLowDown 2010-05-31 | Reads 31 (cached version)
One week ago, Nalle Hukkataival embarked on a roadtrip to Norway. The weather forecast looked grim to say the least, predicting heavy rain every day in the Trondheim area. This didn't put him off however, and apparently, and as usual I suppose, the forecast was not entirely correct, because today I got a report from Eivind Flobak: "Rumour has it Nalle Hukkataival has sent the Diamanten project at Vingsand, giving it a grade of 8B+. Th ...

Carlo Traversi doing Jade. The video

TheLowDown 2010-05-30 | Reads 20 (cached version)
... can now be found over at DPM .
Not bad!

Two more 8B's for James Webb

TheLowDown 2010-05-29 | Reads 15 (cached version)
Jimmy Webb is quickly ticking his way through the Colorado test-pieces. This month, he has dispatched no less than 4 8B's, 6 8A+'s and 10 8A's. Two of the 8B's, Top notch and Don't get too Greedy  were done yesterday. Here's a video with Jimmy Webb and Brion Voges.

Jade, by Carlo Traversi

TheLowDown 2010-05-28 | Reads 24 (cached version)
Just a few hours ago, Carlo Traversi made the 6th(?) (Woods, Landman, Robinson, Hukkataival, Schaal) ascent of Daniel Woods' Jade , ~8C, in the Upper chao ...

The Dai Koyamada interview

TheLowDown 2010-05-28 | Reads 12 (cached version)
A couple of weeks ago, Dai Koyamada made the long awaited 2nd ascent of Dave Graham's 'The story of 2 worlds' on the Dreamtime boulder at Cresciano. The problem, links an extremely crimpy 7 move ~8B/+ or so into Toni Lamprecht's ultra physical 'The Dagger', 8B+, to create what Dave, at the time, called "the new standard for 8C". It went more than five years without a 2nd ascent, and it wasn't because nobody tried it...

Victimas Perez by Enzo Oddo

TheLowDown 2010-05-27 | Reads 10 (cached version)
Enzo Oddo has done it again. After five 9a-ish routes last year, Enzo has now done the first for the year by making the 3rd ascent of Victimas Perez, 9a, in the Raco de la finestra sector at Mar ...

Help Salavat Rakhmetov's daughter

TheLowDown 2010-05-27 | Reads 11 (cached version)
Salavat's 5-year-old daughter, Zalia, sustained severe injuries when she was hit by a falling rock at a crag in Turkey. Surgery, treatment and transportation is very expensive, so please help by donating money, if you can.
The data for Western Union (currency account maybe later):
RAKHMETOV Salavat (Kipaevich)
63 № 8399932
28.04.2009 - 28.04.2014
Moscovskaya oblast, g. Odintsovo
Read more on 

Jan Hojer on Action directe, 9a

TheLowDown 2010-05-27 | Reads 8 (cached version)

Jörg Guntram repeats The Hourglass

TheLowDown 2010-05-26 | Reads 12 (cached version)
Jörg Guntram , on tour in Sweden with Tobi Kleemair, has managed to make the 2nd ascent of Stefan Rasmussen's great looking The Hourglass , ~8B+, at Björnblocket, near Västervik. Stefan, portraid in Shawn Boye's movie The Sends , has been working tirelessly for many years, developing boul ...

Climbing and where it's going, by DW

TheLowDown 2010-05-25 | Reads 14 (cached version)
Daniel Woods has written a piece about where he thinks climbing is going .
I think this is a very complicated issue... and I suspect I'm not unique in this sense (either). On the one hand, if we by progress mean more difficult climbing, a significantly harder problem or route must get a higher grade, because it's on open ended scale. On the other hand, it's not always easy to know whether the thi ...

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