Victory Quickdraw on Urgent Action Got back to Kilnsey for a few days
to start trying True North properly. I knew it would be tough with next
to no stamina but things got worse when the route was booked up, it was
very warm and I started to get a cold. A session after dark clawed [...]
Cold Fusion Blog
Jerry on the crux of Liquid Ambar (Pic from Doylos blog). Twenty
years ago today Jerry Moffat made the first ascent of Liquid Ambar at
Lower Pen Trwyn Wales. It was the country’s first 8c, a crown it
was only to hold for a matter of weeks before Ben Moon climbed Hubble at
8c+. Today the [...]
Sabotage my old way back in March. Today I finally topped out on
Sabotage. I’ve written lots about this problem over the last five
years. It stands as my most tried and failed on boulder problem or route
to date. The past two springs have been a rocky road of near success
then injury. But I [...]
Arcadia E7 (8a), Steall Hut Crag. Got back up to Steall Crag on
Monday and Tuesday for a change of scene. I found Arcadia E7 (8a) to be
dry so jumped on that again. I last tried this pinkpoint line several
years ago and got shutdown. On subsequent visits the top section has
always been [...]
With summer coming in I’ve desperately been trying to tie up the
last projects loose ends. Since Devastation I’ve had a couple of
days on the project. Last sessions first redpoint got me 3 moves from
success. After announcing I thought it might be easy I found myself
struggling to get off the ground! Conditions [...]
The final crux on Devastation (Mark McGowan) The journey is finally
complete. Yesterday, May 5th 2010, I redpointed Devastation Generation
at Dumbuck, my old project I had tried and failed on for so many years.
The route has always stood beyond a grade, a name or a set of moves. It
was my youthful statement encapsulating [...]
I’ve herd the term glycogen dump used by climbers before (aka not
eating the day before climbing) and thought it was worth looking into. I
found a wee study about rapid weight loss by reducing stored glycogen
here. I was amazed by how much of the bodys energy is tied to water. It
looks like [...]
Riboflavin plays a key role in metabolism. I’d had a mixed
week training and dieting. Wednesdays session had went well even though
I’d felt a bit weaker. My repeat session on Thursday was a
complete fail after my shoulder got very sore into the first power
endurance circuit with the weight belt. I sacked it a [...]
Spin the Wheel Managed to get out to Dumbuck a couple of times this
week. Training seemed to have gone well after a couple of days fasting
so I was keen to see how the route felt. On Thursday I headed up with
Mark McGowan. Conditions were spot on and I made the scoop link first [...]
Arnold could have made an impression on Dev back in the day Back at
Dumbuck today, the seige continues. Same links today which was
unexpected given that I felt sore from Thursdays 5hr training session.
The one arm lock-offs pasted midnight pushed me over the edge. I need to
train better if I’m going make progress. [...]
After our recent hack of ScottishClimbs.com Mark has slowly been adding
all our services over to a new server. This has facilitated an upgrade
of my blogging software wordpress. Version 2.8.3 comes with loads of
bells and whistles for web 3.0 (smirk). So nice one Mark, Cheers! Also
– I’ve been pretty busy installing and checking [...]
