Hayden and I adopted the tactic of 'if the weather looks marginal, we
take our gear for a hike up the glacier'. That is to say: if it
cleared, we wanted to be poised to strike at the base of the route. So
we packed our gear and hiked in to high camp, prepared to auger in until
we got up something
. Our first goal was going to be Exocet
on Cerro Standhart.Our alarm went off at 2:00 AM, Hayden's 19th
birthday! We blasted some Not ...
Jason Kruk - blog
Finally back in Canadar after nearly two months in Argentine Patagonia.
Below is some thoughts on the amazing trip...I left Vancouver in early
January to alpine climb in Argentine Patagonia. I had already put time
into this range, establishing one new route and two first free ascents
during the 2008 season with Will Stanhope. This year I was hoping to
build on that success and establish another long rock freeclimb. I
brought along the two best te ...
The majority of the alpine brothers and sisters returned with tales of
defeat from the mountains. Our trailer park decided we needed a bit of a
blowout to let off steam. We threw a 'gringo trailer trash' asado
with the help of Eduardo, our friend and owner of the hostel and
trailers.
Segal in gringo trailer trash costume… ...
Patagonia Interlude: Tour de Bloc Western Boulder Regionals!
Jason Kruk - blog 2010-04-07 | Reads 7 (cached version)
Sorry for the delay in Patagonia updates... I have been working hard in
Vancouver instead of updating my blog. Hard to do both when you are an
apathetic writer at the best of times...I just returned from a long
weekend in Kelowna, BC. I was setting and generally helping out for the
adult regional bouldering championships being held there. The venue:
Beyond the Crux climbing gym, my personal vote for the best gym and
climbing training facility in ...
Alpine climbing is a stressful game. Generally, you are uncomfortable and scared. I spend most of my time absolutely hating it. It has its obvious rewards and some truly special moments, but most of the time I just end up asking myself ...
It's only ten days until I depart for Argentina. I love
the pre-trip process of planning, packing, ordering gear, everything.
Vancouver has to be one of the best cities in the world to be based in
for expedition climbing, it really has it all. These past few weeks
of city life have been about training, preparing, family, seeing old
friends and making new ones.
I was poking through photos and video from ...
After Yosemite, I drove straight to Boulder, Colorado, to meet up
with Matt Segal. I was excited to be in town the week of the
Adventure Film Festival, an amazing celebration of mountain culture
with many good friends. This was an especially important year - we
all miss Micah, Jonny and Wade and I was honoured to be able to
celebrate their lives with family and friends and the Colorado
climbing community.
After the f ...
Will Stanhope and I made a one-mission hit to Yosemite Valley at
the end of October. Upon arrival in the Valley we immediately packed
our haul bags and jugged and hauled to Heart Ledge. Our plan was to
set off the next day and intercept our bags after climbing the
Freeblast and continue on the 42-pitch Golden Gate route (A. Huber, VI 5.13-).
I was climbing this route totally off the couch, having done zero real climbi ...
I was climbing this route totally off the couch, having done zero real climbi ...
Willy and I just rolled in hot to Terrebone, Oregon, after training hard in Kelowna, BC. Ktown's Beyond the Crux climbing gym is without question, Canada's premier bouldering and training facility. Will and I went there for some final tune-u ...
I just returned from 10 days of time in the alpine... more accurately,
exam time in the alpine. The ACMG assistant alpine exam was held in the
Rockies and Rogers Pass this year at the end of August. Luckily, I was
grouped for the duration with two strong candidates: Josh Briggs of
Canmore, and Jeff Bellis of Revelstoke. In addition to being good
guides, these two happen to be world-class shit talkers, which helped to
keep the mood light during th ...
I just returned from a very successful trip into the Bugaboo mountains
with Matt Segal and Will Stanhope. New free ascents were the objective
- a tricky conditions-dependant business that can all come apart with
the absence of a single key foothold or wet splitter crack. Luckily,
things came together and we added two significant all-free routes to the
range.< ...
