planetclimbing.org - entries tagged with category:sport-climbing

Tielma Productions - Sent!

2010-09-06T06:30:00Z

A couple of days before I sent, I was told it wasn't 8a. That I had an advantage being tall, making the first move on the route substantially easier. At that point, I'd tried the route twice, both times falling off above the crux on a move, that for me, is difficult due to my height; it goes both ways. Regardless, it didn't really matter what the grade was, it's a fantastic route and I was going to send...

All in all, it took five tries, that is, if you discount the numerous attempts to figure out the start moves and one attempt on the non direct version. Three of the four falls came on the above mentioned move, the fourth and final fall on the next to last, which I learned, thereafter, could be done a much easier way.

For me, it's tough to say what the grade is, it honestly felt as if it were 7a, but the powerful style of the climb definitely suits me and I had it dialed. Not that it matters, grading is always subjective, but a send is not. For the moment, I'll trust the community's consensus of the grade, though it's tough to know since I'm not going to disregard my boycott over some number... I'll reserve opinion until I've sent a few more at the grade.

Shawn Boye crusing the crux on Tintin direkt 8a, Finnsvedsbergen, Stockholm.

Tielma Productions - Anticipation...

2010-09-02T06:30:00Z

I'm going to send, it's not a declaration, it's confidence based in knowledge of what I feel to be possible. This conviction does not add pressure, instead it strengthens the resolve to pull through. What's your chance for success? Shawn Boye going through the moves on Tintin direkt 8a, Finnsvedsbergen, Stockholm.

Tielma Productions - Dejection?

2010-09-01T06:30:00Z

We're all looking to send, but when you're shut down does it leave you wanting more? Sure, once you've sent, there's that moment of jubilation and then it's off to the next problem. But when you're denied, there's the desire to overcome, a way to find, a challenge to meet, that results in the euphoria of the send. We climb to overcome? Jonas Wigren looking forward on Baggen 7a+, Finnsvedsbergen, Stockholm.

Tielma Productions - That Sending Feeling...

2010-08-31T06:30:00Z

A picture says a thousand words... Joel Berglund after sending Kapten Haddock 7a, Finnsvedsbergen, Stockholm.

Tielma Productions - Easy Street

2010-08-30T16:36:34Z

At 10 meters it's practically a boulder, only you wouldn't want to boulder it... Meeting your belayer usually means a pretty soft fall and that it definitely wouldn't be without the belayer. You'd also think that there's bound to be a hard move somewhere along the way, but there's not, it's the combination of moves that makes the route.

You need to dial it in, and that's what we were working on when Jon Lindmark showed up. He asked if he could top it which we begrudgingly allowed, but undeterred, he demonstrated superb execution and hiked it until the last sloper which was giving the rest of us fits. So we continued, practicing pulling our legs up so as not to hit our belayer in the head as we in turn pitched off for a 6 meter ride. Then, he had the nerve to try and top it again, which we resoundingly denied, forcing him to tie into the sharp end. He responded by casually cruising the route with impeccable form, making it hard to believe it was a personal best. Maybe it's time for a downgrade?

Nonetheless, we continued the struggle with varied success... Jonas Wigren bearing down on the crimp that sets up the crux on Lugna gatan 7b+, Gustavbergs Vattentorn, Stockholm.

Tielma Productions - The Crux...

2010-08-26T06:30:00Z

The crux of Agealis starts with an imposing tufa that you clip on the right before traversing left to a good pinch. Then its an iron pinch on the tufa and two shallow pockets before another good handle at the top of the tufa. Its a sequence that you'd never miss if it were a boulder problem, but 20 pumpy meters up its a whole different story... And all the while, the irrational thought exists in the back of your mind, that the rope is shearing across that tufa. Oscar Krumlinde launching into the crux of Agealis 7c, Grande Grotta, Kalymnos.

Tielma Productions - Agealis

2010-08-25T15:40:51Z

It is my opinion that a photo should say something, that it should somehow captivate the viewer and give some insight on life. Climbing with the inherent depth involved, not to mention the focus and desire of the climber, provides a great opportunity to capture innate aspects of the human psyche. I do not take climbing photos for beta, even though that is the primary interest of many climbers.

However, I do use a Canon 5D Mark II which means that every hold on Agealis is clearly visible in the high resolution version of this image, as you can see in the blog's background image... and I intend to make use of that information. An unknown climber entering the crux of Agealis 7c, Grande Grotta, Kalymnos, in all its glory high over the Mediterranean; the world's most photographed sport climb and with good reason.

Tielma Productions - The Future...

2010-08-25T05:33:37Z

Our four year old has been climbing since he could walk and when he grows up he will not remember ever having not climbed. He is also a keen observer and when concentrated has a flow to his climbing that is only seen in the very best. So what will become of his talent? Will I have a chance to make another climbing film? Above all, I hope that he enjoys climbing and gets the opportunity to see the world in a broader context, growing as a person in the process. It makes one ponder what drives us to climb...

Tielma Productions - Kapten Haddock

2010-08-16T06:30:00Z

With all the talk of what's appropriate for route names we decided on Finnsvedsbergen to provided such much needed respite from the shear insanity. Who could possibly be offended by Kapten Haddock? Well, certainly there's someone in Stockholm, at this very moment, in uproar enough to throw any remaining vestige of freedom of speech to the hawks.

Jon Lindmark, more concerned about the lack of stick than the route's name, Kapten Haddock, 7a, Finnsvedsbergen.

Tielma Productions - Baggen

2010-08-15T08:39:05Z

Almost in the bag... Björn Bergmark cutting loose on Baggen, 7a+, Finnsvedsbergen.

Tielma Productions - Bring it on!

2010-08-15T07:55:55Z

Agealis. It's a legendary route, and probably the most photographed sport climb on the planet, good enough to go back for, bring it on!