[Ed Note: Kelly lets us write the title, so of course we're going to
take a chance to tease him. And it goes without saying, but we'll say it
anyways for all those bone-heads out there who are too-cool for...
Entries tagged with 'category:trad'
One special climbing trip - Part 1
Alpine Dreams of a Desk Monkey 2010-07-21 | Reads 6 (cached version)
Diff and I recently had a two week tour of the north west, doing a bit
of climbing and a lot of eating. We had a fabulous time and some
fabulous weather (as well as some not so fabulous weather - we didn't
get that lucky!). It was a trip we can never repeat, but we would love
to explore further the places we found and certainly to do some more
climbing. It's too much to write up in one post so this is just the
beginning....We hired a vintage VW ...
After
rain intervened with our plans Blair took Richie and I to Dave's Cave
near Arisaig. It's hard.I'm in a bit of a quandry.
After the ...
There is a grade debate going on (again) on the UKC Forums, in the Ondra
Spotted thread. (By the way – loads of Ondra stuff coming up at
UKC – watch this space). It’s a Trad vs Sport style debate
and actually has a bit of substance. One particular post that struck a
chord was [...]
They say the first step is admitting it, so here goes. I'm an addict.
There, I said it. An addict. My body has become physically dependent.
I need. I crave. I demand. And I get my fix. A heady cocktail of
chemicals flows through my veins on a regular basis. A.L.E. Adrenaline.
Lactic acid. Endorphines.Spring in the Highlands. The sun shines, the
birds sing, the snow melts, and the rock-jocks get their fix. After a
winter of sport climb ...
Just got back from two weeks in Tafroute (2007 UKC Article on the place
here) , Morocco. This is a great place for hanging out and doing mid
grade trad climbing with potential for lots of new routes. I’ll do
a proper post on this later this week when I get more photos from the
big camera, [...]
As the year comes to a close and climbing trips seem a bit less
frequent, I feel it is important to reflect. As a climber I like to
focus on progress and usually push myself to increase my
abilities. While I have been climbing for about ten years, I have
only been setting goals for the [...]
The year is drawing to a close and I’ve begun to realize that,
even though I didn’t allow myself to literally write down a list
of goals for the year (I find this just results in too much pressure and
disappointment…), I did in fact have a bunch of goals and I
accomplished a big [...]
There are many things that are awesome about Stanford. One of these many
awesome-tastic features is the fact that we get an entire week off for
Thanksgiving. At Caltech, we only got Thursday and Friday off, and most
professors considered it a normal week of school when scheduling work
for the week. We decided to [...]
I first became interested in South by Southwest (5.11a, 5 pitches) on
Lower Cathedral Spire when a dude from Colorado mentioned it when we
were chatting at the Penny Lane crag in Squamish. He mentioned something
about it being easy for the grade in the Valley (hey, if I’m
trying to break into a grade, [...]
A photo essay from the Original Route on Rainbow Wall
Dream in Vertical 2009-10-25 | Reads 19 (cached version)
They tell me fall is the time for sending, the best climbing time of the
year. Well now is October and the desert is starting to cool
down. With these thoughts in mind I drove to Vegas. This past
weekend I had the chance to climb the Original route on Rainbow Wall.
This experience flowed beautifully as I [...]
